Saturday, April 18, 2015

the privileged police

Culture is a powerful remnant that has become what our nation prides itself in. It is what ties us together and (at times) molds us into the person we aspire to be or appreciate. However, living in this melting pot, the appreciation and value of culture can easily get lost in the mix of our sensationalized media obsession and morph into offensive situations.  We see it in magazines, during music videos, award show performances and even at laid back events, such as concerts. We often overlook these instances and pass them off as a new trend; completely unaware of the damage it may cause the culture itself. This is known as cultural appropriation and it has been rocking the world of women’s fashion over the past few decades. The word itself isn’t normally seen on mainstream media, which is probably why many people aren’t aware of its meaning or even know such a thing exists. 


According to RaceRelations, cultural appropriation is when “members of a dominant group exploit the culture of less privileged groups-often with little understanding of the latter’s history, experience and traditions”. That’s pretty all there is to it yet the definition still escapes people’s mind, as some believe they are helping the cause by "contributing” to the culture by having bits of it sprinkled all over media and thinking they are saviors to the underprivileged, especially to girls/women of color. Yet the media and other supporters of mainstream media aren't full aware of the damage they cause to these girls and women who try to find themselves in the magazines and television shows or even at luxury events. Using someone's culture with little to no knowledge isn't a stepping-stone; it's actually serving as a barrier to underprivileged women.

Vickie Nam explains the struggle in her book
In Vickie Nam's, YELL-Oh Girls!, she discusses how it was hard for her to find a representation of herself (aka Asian culture) in mainstream media or in the magazines she used to collect as a child. This sad song is something I found myself, as well as many of my friends, relating to. It's when you finally find that one piece that speaks to you but 90% of the time, it's whitewash propaganda that you settle for because you know that's the most of your culture you'll ever see. Nam expresses this same dismay in her essay, "Then one day I found something of myself represented in a magazine, but not in the way I'd ever expected". She goes on to explain that she found an advertisement of a white model wearing geisha makeup, which annoyed her enough to write a letter to the magazine about (sadly it was never published). But these instances happen and women are supposed to accept people using their culture as a trend for the sake of fashion. However Nam's persistence didn't stop there as she began working for a magazine once she completed school, as she realized that you have to work from the inside to change the world. She seem discovers that the publishing industry was taxing to her character and lonely, "At school, at least 50 percent of the faces in my classes or in my dorm were nonwhite. Here, I was a lone woman of color". This poses the question, how can one change the way people (or in this case, women) of color are viewed when they are normally the odd one out? Well, it's deemed as impossible due to celebrities (such as the ones I'm about to mention) are adding more negative stigma to the scene than helping the cause.

Katy Perry's AMA Performance
On the right, I placed a photo of Katy Perry, completely docked out in Geisha attire and makeup, performing at an award show. I remember going through my Twitter feed during the performance and finding some of my Japanese friends upset (and rightly so) over Katy's performance look. One of my friends told me, "When I dressed up as a Geisha for World Culture Day at school, I dealt with racist remarks everywhere I went because of my face makeup. They would try to devalue my character and someone even told me to go back to China. I was like, "This isn't even part of Chinese culture!” Yet Katy Perry does it and all I saw was positive feedback for Katy and how she is "really making a difference" in bringing awareness to Japanese culture. I was mortified." There has been some serious debating in the comment section of Vulture.com as to whether Katy crossed the line but one thing is for certain, this performance falls under the definition of cultural appropriation and that’s something the public shouldn't ignore.

~trendy, cute, chic~
Another example of cultural appropriation is the photo on the left; these well known celebrities are proudly (and some seductively) "embracing" Indian culture with traditional nose jewelry, bindis and headdresses. This is not appreciating or honoring anyone's culture yet they can get away with these looks because they aren't women of color, they aren't naturally armed with the double burden many of us are faced with. 

As a child, I grew up in a predominantly Indian/Asian community so I was taught tolerance of other cultures at a very young age. It wasn't until I was in middle school that I began seeing this negativity towards my friend's cultures. One of my friend's proudly wore a hijab since she was thirteen years old and she faced backlash from that very moment on. Many of her privileged friends felt sorry for her and treated her as a sheltered outcast because of her hijab. But one day, she invited her friend over to her house where she tried on a hijab for the first time. Her friend enjoyed the look enough to post a picture of it on Facebook and within hours, she got a flow of support for representing "brown" girls and "looking better" than most of them. Facing this type of cultural appropriation is disheartening enough when you see it pass off as a trend in magazine but it can be extremely discouraging when your white friend can get away with your culture better than you according to society's standards and ignorance. 

They strip you of your culture only to use it themselves
Overall, there is a fine line between appropriation and appreciation and many people miss the mark by a long shot. You may be asking, what does this controversial and underground topic of cultural appropriation have to do with women and the media? Well, it has everything to do with women and the media. By letting all these outlets sensationalize cultures without any lines to do so, it is serving as a barrier to women of color everywhere. The privileged can get away with "experimenting" yet women of color are scrutinized and suffer from backlash because of their culture. By letting advertisements and articles promoting cultural appropriation run in magazines and TV outlets, it's whitewashing cultures and making it harder for these women to rise above and strive in these industries. 

Stopping these major companies may be hard to do from the inside out as a minority but that's why the Internet is a wonderful outlet for the voices of the stressed and oppressed. There is a wonderful and insightful movement called #ReclaimTheBindi trending on Tumblr where brown girls embraced their culture and decided to fight against bindis being used as a fashion accessory at the infamous music festival, Coachella. Another social media trend that has been making headlines is the movement of embracing black culture and lives; it's called "BLACKOUT for Human Rights".

These are seemingly small steps in educating the world and bringing awareness to this taboo terminology but it is catching fire through the blogging community. The first step to stopping cultural appropriation understands it and below, I'll provide some links to help people further understand this complex and "new" idea. 

Links for Better Understanding
   

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